The Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque

If you’ve been following along, when you are walking through BSB there isn’t really all that much to see.  That is, if you have already been to the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque.  If you haven’t seen the mosque and have just arrived in BSB, the grand mosque’s magnetizing effect will immediately pull you to its locale in the heart of the city.

The mosque was built and opened in 1958 and financed totally by the ruling family.  It’s splendour and magnificence mirrors the Sultan’s incredulous personal wealth.  At a cost of around 5 million USD, the Bruneian ruler spared no expense: imported Italian marble pillars and floor, granite from Shanghai, crystal chandeliers from England, ornate carpets from Saudi Arabia and a main dome of pure gold.  When it is juxtaposed against the average Bruneian’s annual salary of 51,600 USD, it makes one wonder.  However, such lavish expenditures might actually be credible when one considers that Brunei is one of the richest countries, at least according to per capita GDP, in the world.  Considering that both the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund rank Brunei’s per capita GDP above Canada, the U.S., the U.K., and Hong Kong, I suddenly find myself sheepish for criticising such a splendid building.

We were careful to pack appropriate dress when we went through Brunei -- totally covering clothes for Lucy, minus the face of course, and modest dress for me with long pants and a polo -- but we found ourselves disappointed by the one factor we didn’t consider: prayer times.  However, as we turned our backs to reluctantly walk out, I heard someone calling me.  A steward at the entrance beckoned us in with a friendly smile, so in we went.  Tourists were given a special section near the entrance to observe, but obviously couldn’t fully enter.   This was in order to preserve the sanctity of the pious, prostrate before the Qibla (a mosque‘s holy wall, facing Mecca).  We slowly walked in, Lucy further covered by a body length black robe, soaking in the calm serenity of the mosque’s halls.  Even my devout and pious atheism couldn’t stop the feeling of numinous confrontation inside the halls of the mosque.

On the way out, I asked a few questions, as I’ll readily admit my grasp in Islam is tenuous at best.  After a few, I casually enquired if this was where the Sultan prayed.  My friend at the front quickly and seriously retorted: “No, the Sultan prays wherever he pleases.”  I think he misinterpreted my question, but considering that insulting the Sultan or the royal family is a serious and punishable offence, I decided not to ask again.

Even the Grand Mosque’s grounds are beautiful.  A blue tiled fountain for the faithful to perform their absolutions waits just outside the entrance.  Many perfectly manicured plants line the gardens around, presenting a serendipitous atmosphere of calm.  The mosque’s minaret stands 52 metres high, making it the highest point in BSB.  Its speakers blast out the call to prayer 5 times a day, clearly indicated by 5 clocks inside the main hall.  Oh, and we learned that the minaret has a somewhat protected status: rumour has it that when the Islamic Bank of Brunei’s building exceeded the minaret’s height, it had to be reduced.

Hindsight is the only perfect vision, and looking back on my quick trip to Brunei I must say that the mosque visit was the highlight.  It offered me a glimpse into both the ruling family and the religious ideals enshrined with the state, and I got to see a pretty incredible building in the process.