"I'm out here a thousand miles from my home,
Walking a road other men have gone down,
I'm seeing a world of people and things,
Hear paupers and peasants and princes and kings."

My hope is that this blog will keep people involved in where I've been, what I’m doing, and occasionally, what I’m thinking.

Friday 27 January 2012

Chinese New Year in Singapore



Moving to a new place is difficult.  But moving to a new place within a new country and culture is equally difficult. The easiest tasks quickly become confusing, and such a simple endeavour as buying groceries can have you bewildered, standing outside of a barber shop, scratching your head wondering where the market your friend told you about disappeared to.  This transitional phase of constant bemusement is how I ended up on Chinese New Year without any groceries.  Wait; I did have a bottle of water.  So go to the grocery store and get some food!  Wrong.  Everything’s closed.  So go to a restaurant!  Wrong.  They’re all closed.  See, I live in a predominantly Chinese neighborhood and shops of all cut and cloth close for the New Year.  After all, it is the biggest holiday of the year in Chinese culture: a combination of Thanksgiving and Christmas.
Luckily, I had the help of many gracious new friends in Singapore.  An auntie at my school invited me to her Reunion Dinner.  Not knowing what to expect, I took a quick poll to figure things out: Reunion Dinner is a large fest held on New Year’s Eve, with most of the nucleic family present.  I felt awkward, but when in a new place or culture, never turn down invitations.  So this is how a found myself in a Singaporean apartment watching in-laws gamble on Mah-jong and eating steamboat! 

Traditional Ang Bo Envelope

Traditionally, Reunion dinner is held at the house of the grandparents of the immediate family.  Needless to say, it was an intimate family affair, but I was immediately made to feel comfortable by the presentation of Ang Bo and the constant offering of food.  In Chinese culture, the eldest member of the family presents guests with a small red packet of money, called Ang Bo.  It’s a superstitious affair.  Multiples must be in two and must, at all costs avoid containing the number four, a traditional character for death.  You’d be a real uncouth villain to put $24 in an Ang Bo, because then you’d be symbolically telling that person you hope that during the upcoming year they will… starve to death.   But that’s neither here nor there.  After the welcoming formalities, we ate.  So yes, if you’ve been following along, I’ve now been given food AND money.  Awesome!  Now, about that money…
Then, there were invitations to gamble.  Mah-jong –google it – is too difficult to explain let alone comprehend.  As I tried my best to avoid gambling – I once lost 50 000 KRW in a casino – my hosts assured me we could instead play Singaporean blackjack.  Twenty minutes later, I’m down twenty.  And twenty after that, I’m up!  Forget the game, what’s really interesting to me is that apparently all of these people aren’t gamblers.  As I look around, I see people with hawk like eyes on the cards on the middle, and gruff paws protecting their personal vault.  They aren’t career sharks?  Again they assure me that it is only a New Year tradition. 

By the time I left, I felt like this guy.


The next day, still without sustenance in my cupboard or coffee in my cup, my landlords treat me to home cooking; gingered fish, mushroom and chicken, greens, and a bowl of steaming chicken odds and ends.  I wish I could tell you all the proper names, but the only Cantonese I’ve picked up is Doe-Jae (thank you).
A Company dinner is generally a tame affair, making conversation, eating, and maybe even drinking.  Much was the same as I went to my first affair with my new company.  We all pitched in to clear the table.  Coffee and tea are served; standard right?  Then, again come the cards.  Transfixed, I observe as all my mild mannered colleagues quickly degenerate into gamblers, money thrown here, money thrown there.  Minimum bets start at $1 but stealthily climb to $2, to $3, finally to $5.     
                All in all, I had great food ranging from Indian to Cantonese to Malay and I had the pleasure of great company.  There’s nothing more to ask for.  To everybody reading; have a happy new year and an auspicious fortune!


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